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Anna

Age: 25

Location: Oaxaca, Mexico

Anna is a writer and teaches English part time.

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Main | June 2006 »

May 31, 2006

The Invasion of the Teachers

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The rites of summer in Oaxaca: rain, mangos on the trees, June bugs the size of ping-pong balls, and the streets full of striking schoolteachers.

Every May, without fail, teachers from across the state invade downtown Oaxaca. Some strike in style with igloo camping tents, but most take shelter under plastic tarps strung between buildings and telephone polls. Forty-six blocks of the city center resemble a refugee camp. Laundry is strung out to dry in front of the governor’s palace, and families sleep on grass mats and flattened cardboard boxes in front of the Cathedral. Teachers are literally underfoot; you have to step over their sprawling bodies to get into stores. Revenues of downtown business have plummeted 90% since the occupation began last week. Government offices have been shut down and traffic paralyzed. Teachers have also taken over some outlying supermarkets, shopping malls, and tollbooths.

Except for sporadic marches and bursts of slogan shouting, the atmosphere is more of carnival than civil unrest. Tourists pose for pictures beside Ché Guevara banners. Black market businesses have appeared overnight, the only economic sector benefiting from the strike. Reggaeton music pounds from stalls selling pirate CDs and DVDs, drowning out the speeches of union leaders and the irate honking from the streets still open to traffic. Venders hawk cold, drinks, fruit, popsicles and shaved ices.

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Selling fresh-squeezed orange juice to strikers


This will go on for weeks or months, until the state government makes a token concession to the teachers’ demands. The governor says the state lacks the resources to give them a raise. The teachers ask: then where did the money come from to remodel the zócalo and rebuild the highway to the Guelaguetza stadium (not to mention buy the 2004 elections)?
“Shame on you!” the governor responds. “What kind of example are you setting for our children? Sleeping in the streets when you should be in the classrooms.”

It’s the same worn telenovela plot from last year and the year before that, as long as anyone can remember, as predictable as the summer rains.

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May 26, 2006

Well, at Least We Don´t have to Swim the Rìo Grande

Migración. Expats in Oaxaca bristle at the word. And we’re not talking about the migration of illegal workers to the United States. That’s a subject for another blog. We mean the Instituto Nacional de Migración, the Mexican “migra,” the miasma of red tape foreigners must traverse to live and work legally in the Mexico. You’d be surprised how many “illegal workers” there are here, and not just the Central American immigrants who are receive similar treatment to their Mexican counterparts in the United States. There are lots of illegal workers from the US and the UK, who live in upscale boarding houses in the historic district and sip margaritas in the sidewalk café’s. They are mostly English teachers who have given up on the paperwork for getting their FM3 work permits. There is also the cost of the visa, about 2000 pesos, about half the monthly income of an average English teacher in Oaxaca, and that’s not counting the expense of obtaining the proper apostilles and notarizations from abroad, nor the 100 or so pesos for the FM3 “photo session” (not just any old headshot will do).

Every time I go to the Migración office I wonder what kind of sucker I am for doing things by the book. The first time I went, in September of 2004, I never actually made it. I got so lost in the maze of streets that I gave up and went home. You see, the Migración office is not located, as common sense would dictate, in the center of the city where most foreigners stay. No, to be a legal alien in Mexico you must first embark on an odyssey through the ritzy suburb of Colonia Reforma in search of the mystical Pensamientos 300, the address of the Migración office. As it turns out, Pensamientos, contrary to the straight line representing it on the map, is a magical realism mirage, a street that dead ends only to reappear again blocks away. Even life-long residents of Oaxaca are perplexed by this address.

On my second attempt, I finally stumbled upon the office, after asking directions about five times from area residents, who are accustomed to the foreigners, wandering, parched and bewildered, in search of Migración. I dragged myself triumphantly to the door of Pensamientos 300 only to find it had closed fifteen minutes before. Not only to you have to find Migración, you must do so in the brief window of 10AM to 1PM. On my third trip to Migración, I finally gained access to the inner sanctuary, only to be administered 400 pesos in fines for my tourist visa which had expired two days before, while I was lost in the wilds of Colonia Reforma. It was the beginning of a long and beautiful friendship.

The purpose of this week’s visit is to get an extension on a tourist visa, which will then buy me the time to come up with the money for my new FM3 visa, my old one having expired in April. It’s been more than a year since I’ve been to Migración, so I make a wrong turn or two before I find it. I politely greet the armed guard at the door as I sign the guest register. I’m actually much less intimidated by the guards than by the grave-faced bureaucrats behind the desks.

Usually the front office is crowded with bewildered American tourists attempting to renew their tourist visas. But today there is no one to distract the Licensiado Jose Luis from my cause. I hand over my documents, my tourist visa, my passport, a copy of my passport (every singe page, even the empty ones), and an ATM receipt. To renew a tourist visa you must prove you have fifty dollars for every day you plan to remain in Mexico even though you would have to be Michael Jackson to require that much money just to pass the day in Oaxaca.

The Licensiado seems to find my dwindling account balance comical, but lets it go. He must be in a good mood. Maybe he got a big bribe today.

“So are you studying here?” he asks casually, trying to catch me in some activity prohibited by my tourist visa.

“No just sightseeing,” I say carefully. When I’m nervous I tend to chatter and reveal too much information. That’s what happened at the airport in April when I returned from a trip abroad. I’m a bad liar and confessed to the customs agent I would be starting a new job in July and was therefore denied the maximum 180 days on my tourist visa. Now I must pay 210 pesos for the privilege of another thirty days.

He scrutinizes my documents for a few minutes with a serious expression. I knew I should have worn a low cut blouse! I know crying helps but I’m too proud.

Finally he sends me across the street to the Papelería/copy shop to buy three copies of a tax form for me to take to the bank to pay for my extension. This copy shop has a nice little racket going. The only commercial business in a completely residential street, they charge twice the normal going rate for copies.

Next, I’m sent to the bank to pay the 210 pesos. The bank is a fifteen minute walk from Migración under the blazing midday sun (if you don’t get lost), and often you are trapped in an interminable line watching the hour hand creep every closer to 1PM, when the office closes.

But today I make a clean get away. I get in out of the bank in a timely fashion and by 12:30 I escape from Migración, without a scratch, a scolding, or a fine, clutching my new 30-day tourist visa. I feel like crossing myself or saying a little prayer in thanksgiving. I wonder who is the patron saint of immigration status.

Well, at least to work here we don´t have to swim the Río Grande or trek across the Sonoran Desert like Mexicans do to work in the US.

May 23, 2006

A Nice Agnostic Girl Goes to Church

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Templo de la Compañia de Jesus

I feel like I’ve been neglecting my friends at the Catholic Youth Group so Saturday evening I attend the weekly meeting at the Templo de la Compañía de Jesus, the 16th century Jesuit church at the southwest corner of the zócalo. I dodge the tourists and trinket venders on the front steps and pass through the archway into the parish courtyard where the thick stone walls dripping with bougainvillea muffle the sounds of the city outside. I could be in any century, except here comes Mario to greet me.

“Hello Anna,” he says in forced English. He’s taking English at college so I encourage him to practice with me.
“Hello Mario. How are you?” Put on the spot, he panics.
“Uh…YES.” he stammers.
“No, wait, wait! I know I know…I…am…fine.... and…. yew?”
“Good student!” We lock arms and head off to the meeting.

Let’s back up a second. First of all, I am not Catholic. In fact, my liberal parents did everything they could to shield me from the supposed dangers of organized religion.

So what’s a nice agnostic girl doing at a Catholic youth group?

As usual, it’s all Lupita’s fault. She invited me to a meeting of the Jovenes Resureccionistas (http://www.jr.org.mx/) more than a year ago. She said it didn’t matter if I was Catholic, so I was taken aback by opening prayer. I felt especially out of place when they deftly crossed themselves while I stood awkwardly. But I was soon won over by the group’s total lack of sanctimony, which quickly wiped away my remaining stereotypes about Catholics. I even accompanied them on a mission to the Sierra Mixteca last spring break (while my all my English teacher colleagues were sipping margaritas on the beach in Huatulco. Sometimes I don’t know what’s wrong with me.)

We usually spend half the meeting hanging out and joking around waiting for people to show up. Officially we start at 5, but tend to get underway around six. We do things like analyze pop songs from a spiritual perspective or do team building exercises like forming a circle while blindfolded. Usually the games have at least a weak religious link but today there is no pretext of religiosity (that I can tell) and we play charades. I do fine with the music category, cheerfully slipping out of my sandals to illicit Shakira’s “Pies Descalzos” (“Bare feet”). Movies are more difficult because the Spanish titles are often unrecognizable. Million Dollar Baby becomes Golpe de Destino, (roughly “Strike of Destiny”) and My Big Fat Greek Wedding is Casarse está en Griego, (“Getting Married is Greek to Me”)

My association with the Jovenes Resureccionistas has given me access to the mysteries of Mexican Catholicism, which all criticism not withstanding is the pulse of this multicultural society. It’s also given me the unconditional friendship of other young people of diverse ages and occupations, people outside the usual expat circle of EFL teachers and sweet-talking “zócalo boys.”

I especially appreciate the innocent companionship of the boys in the group. Boys like Mario, Migue, Diego (of “Diego Luna’s Homestyle Tacos”) and others. Some Saturdays we’ll stroll arm in arm around the zócalo or follow the sounds of music up the Alcala tourist walkway. Later they’ll deposit me at my door with a friendly kiss on the cheek. They’re instinctive, brotherly courtesy is the flip side of the machismo coin. I truly believe most Mexican men are like my friends from the Catholic Youth Group. But the fact remains that foreign women are magnets for the opposite kind.

Later the same night I’m walking home from the movie theater. I can hear the crickets in botanical garden and the laughs of the wedding guests streaming out of Santo Domingo. It’s only ten o’clock and I feel safe walking the familiar cobble stoned streets in the festive heart of Oaxaca.

He passes close beside me, an average man, medium build, and medium height. His hand caresses mine, all the more intrusive for its gentleness.
“Mi amor,” he whispers. I cringe away.

The other side of the coin again.

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May 19, 2006

Feeling the Music

I like going dancing with Lalo because he never tells me to “feel the music.” This helps me to relax enough to do just that. On the contrary, when a suave dance teacher in a black spandex muscle shirt commands me to relax the effect is quite the opposite.

I’ve never recovered from the dance teachers I had in Cuba. When my friend and I first signed up for private classes we innocently assumed our instructors to be gay. This was a logical conclusion from our US perspective, considering they were two well-dressed, well-built dance teachers who lived and worked together. But the same stereotypes do
not apply in Latin American. Y. and E. were in fact flamingly heterosexual. They sized us up in one glance and chose their partner, apparently according to their individual tastes in women. Y. spent the entire time gazing at my friend’s cleavage while poor E. was stuck ordering me to “relax,” and “feel the music.” Our lessons soon came to an end because the electricity in Y. and E’s apartment went out and we had no stereo with which to practice. We tried to reschedule, but Y. and E were too occupied with their more obliging (on and off the dance floor) foreign students to make time for us.

This experience left me further convinced that dancing is a test of my femininity, as much as my ability to keep time with my feet while my partner twists me into a pretzel by a series of convoluted turns. How can I relax and “feel the music” while my very worth as a woman is being tersely evaluated by the black spandex-suited playboy who one minute tells me to move like a woman, not a robot, and the next to stop flapping my arms?

But is that so different from what I tell my English students, when they grope for the answer, eyes focused upwards as if trying to retrieve input from the air, cheeks burning with self consciousness. Relax. Let go of the confining grammar rules (which I’ve spent the last month grilling into you) and communicate. Stop translating in your head. Feel the language (while I and the rest of the class stare at you expectantly). Maybe I’m just as guilty as my slick dance instructors, trying to reduce what for me comes naturally to a simple set of instructions.

Contrary to popular stereotypes, Latin Americans are not born with rhythm (with the possible exception of the Sra. Guillermina). In addition to foreigners, Oaxaca’s dance schools are full of Mexicans, looking for their inner Don Juan or just tired of embarrassing themselves at weddings and quienceañeras. I’m not sure to which of these categories Lalo belonged when he took classes. One thing is sure, when he thrusts his left foot forward to lead, the gesture is not his own. It’s too grandiose, too rehearsed. I can imagine his instructor, (who in my mind looks just like Antonio Banderas) wringing his hands. “NO Lalo.! No, No, No. It’s like this…” Antonio Banderas pulls Lalo to him and leads him forcefully onto the floor. “You are the MAN Lalo! You must lead with authority!”

Maybe it’s this mental image that lets me relax and make it through a series of turns without loosing my footwork. It also doesn’t hurt my confidence that there is a large, loud group of gringos in the club whose attempts at salsa dancing are even more laughable than my own. Some even look at Lalo and I for what to do. I know this is a huge mistake on their part, but I’m flattered anyway. I stop thinking about my feet and enjoy myself.

I remember how I learned Spanish. It was not in the classroom, where I memorized grammar rules but was never take the leap of faith necessary to convert them into actual communicative speech. I was too shy to speak in English in front of 25 virtual strangers, much less Spanish.

No, I learned Spanish in the garden of the Cultural Institute of Oaxaca, sitting on a stone bench beside Lupita, my conversation partner. At first I didn’t understand half of what she said, but her impish grin and animated hand gestures filled in the gaps. In my eagerness to know her better, I forgot to be anxious about my grammar. There was no more preterit and co-preterit, indicative and subjunctive, just conversations about likes, dislikes, relationships, and pets. I made mistakes. Lots of them. Not only did no lightning bolt of judgment descend upon me, but I usually got my message across, errors and all.

The band takes a break and they put on a disco CD. No sooner do the triumphant opening chords of “I will survive!” sound from the stereo and the gringos are back in their element. They thrust their beer bottles high and pantomime the lyrics, while the Mexicans look on amused. When they play the Village People I actually have to coach Lalo on the moves for “YMC.” Then “Billie Jean” comes on and my countrywomen, (who have imbibed far more alcohol than my writer-English teacher income permits) gyrate rhythmically, wriggling their booties almost to the floor. Lalo’s eyes bulge. This unbridled sexuality is not like the combative courtship of Mexican salsa, where the seduction lies in its suggestiveness. No one can say these gringas are not feeling the music. It’s just different music.

Some things I never had to work at: writing, drawing, and most any academic subject not requiring mathamatics. But my learning my second language was a process, is a process, by turns torturous and exhilarating. It required me to step out my shyness, talk to new people, confront new cultural norms, stop being a perfectionist, humiliate myself publicly, make lots and lots of mistakes. Now that I’m fairly fluent in Spanish I look back and feel a greater sense of accomplishment than I have about anything else, even writing and other talents that came to me naturally.

I tell my students that if I could learn Spanish (and I pass around some of my early Spanish assignments for them to laugh at) they can learn English. I mean it, but mostly they look at me like I’m reciting another Academic platitude like “relax, live the language, feel the music…”

If I could only find the right music.

May 15, 2006

In the Kitchen with Diego Luna

Today I’m lucky enough to witness the rare phenomenon of a Mexican man cooking. My friend Diego Luna has offered to make a meal for me, in my own kitchen at that, while I sit back and watch. Sorry to disappoint you, but this is not the same Diego Luna who starred in movies like Y Tu Mamá También, Dirty Dancing 2: Havana Nights and The Terminal. But I bet you Diego Luna the actor can’t make tacos like my Diego Luna, the chemist/taxi driver.

Diego Luna’s Home-style Oaxacan Tacos

Ingredients

1 green pepper, finely chopped
1 large white onion, diced
¼ pound lean steak
2 cups quesillo Oaxacan string cheese
1 heaping tablespoon finely chopped chile de agua (or Serrano pepper)
Juice of 2 limes
A dozen small corn tortillas
Salt to taste
Cooking oil

1. Shred the quesillo into fine strands with your fingers. Set aside.
2. Fry the steak in a frying pan with a little cooking oil, until brown on the outside.
3. Add onions and green peppers. Fry for 2-3 minutes.
4. Stir in the quesillo. Cook for another 2-3 minutes until cheese is melted and meat and vegetables are tender.
3. Heat tortillas on a comal, skillet or in the microwave.
4. Spoon the steak mixture onto tortillas, top with a squirt of limejuice and guacamole.

Guacamole

1 large ripe avocado
Juice of one lime
1 heaping tablespoons chopped chile de agua (or Serrano) or to taste
1 teaspoon salt or to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1/3 C water

Combine all ingredients in a blender or food processor.

Diego Luna’s home-style Oaxacan tacos are best enjoyed with ice-cold chelas (Mexican for beers), the combination of which leaves me complacently stuffed for the rest of the day. To return the favor, I’ve impulsively volunteered to go to his house some day soon and make an apple pie, the first traditional US food that popped into my mind. Hopefully this was not a mistake. Finding all the ingredients may turn into an odyssey.

May 12, 2006

Where the Ordinary is Extraordinary

Friends in the US often say they’re jealous, convinced I’m having all these exotic adventures while they are stuck in work or grad school. But exotic is a subjective term. For example, many Oaxacans still find a trip to Plaza del Valle, (our US-style shopping mall) an exotic experience.

You could say that here, the “exotic” is everyday: the parades of brightly costumed dancers, the indigenous women selling chapulines (fried grasshoppers) in the market. But the longer I stay here, the less exotic, and more ordinary, these things become. Just because they are ordinary doesn’t mean they’re not special. To the contrary, that these colorful traditions are the stuff of everyday, just goes to show the cultural richness of life in Oaxaca.

I don’t sneer at foreigners who see Oaxaca as exotic, especially since I was one of them not so long ago. Sometimes it takes an outsider’s eye to truly appreciate a culture. They are able to perceive what the rest of us take for granted. I remember the first time I set foot in Whole Foods Market after spending four months in Cuba. What I’d always considered an ordinary, (if somewhat snobbish) supermarket, I suddenly saw transformed into grand museum of food. I reverently admired the displays of lush organic greens and the twenty-plus varieties of cheese exhibited in their shining, state of the art dairy case.

“It’s just all so beautiful!” I raved. My mother chuckled as she calmly trundled her shopping cart up and down the aisles making her habitual circuit of the store.

I should have been indignant about all that excess, knowing that Cubans were subsisting on inadequate government rations and black market goods at inflated prices. But instead I felt like throwing myself on the altar of the free-trade, free-range, chemical/hormone/genetically-modified/cruelty-free gods. All attempts by my Cuban professors to instill me with an austere, revolutionary ethic went straight out the window. All I wanted to do was to gorge myself on the capitalist buffet of endless food choices.

I try to see my surroundings through the eyes of my US friends as I begin another “ordinary” day in Oaxaca. At 7 AM I wake to the sweet sound of water gurgling in my pipes. Still half asleep, I leap out of bed to fill my plastic buckets in case there is no more water the rest of the day. We are in the rainy season now, but the last couple days have been hot and dry and last night the city water ran out (a good excuse to leave the dirty dishes in the sink). In the dry months of winter and early spring we frequently go several days without any municipal water and have to rely on water stored in cisterns on the roof, which often comes out brown and fetid smelling. But the situation is worse in other areas of the city. Some neighborhoods only get water once a week, or not at all. In that case they have to order a pipa, a tanker-truck with a long hose that looks like a vacuum hose, which is then connected to your cistern. But pipas are expensive, and many people simply go without. When I get frustrated with the water situation, I pretend I am living in one of those books with titles like, Traveler’s Tales: Way Off the Beaten Path, in which such inconveniences are transformed into delightfully absurd anecdotes.

After stowing my buckets under the sink I go out on the balcony to turn on my gas tank. Back inside, I light the stove with match and heat water for my Nescafe. (Surprisingly, Nescafe is the drink of choice in this coffee-producing region, perhaps because few can afford automatic coffee makers). I turn on the TV to watch Carlos Loret de Mola, the Brad Pitt of Mexican news anchors, report on the demonstrations in Mexico City, sparked by last week’s violent police put down of dissidents in Atenco, State of Mexico. I heat more water and mix it with the tepid tap water in a bucket. Standing on the concrete floor in the bathroom I scoop out water with a plastic cup and pour it over my head.

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My apartment, or my "hovel" as my dad calls it, seen from the azotea.


To dry my hair after my “shower,” I head out onto the azotea, that’s the flat roof of the two-story building adjoining mine. I spend a lot of time out here, to the puzzlement of my Mexican neighbors who use this space only for utilitarian purposes like hanging laundry and trash disposal (judging from the crushed beer cans and headless Barbie dolls strewn about). But I treat it as my back porch, a back porch overlooking all of Oaxaca. From here, I can spy into the neighbors’ high walled courtyards, and look across the flat roofs of the historic center, broken only by the domes of churches and the colossal green crowns of the trees in the zócalo, six blocks away. I can see Sra. Guillermina’s house on the mountainside, two blocks left and three blocks up from the Coca-cola billboard. Best of all, on a hazy summit to the west, I can make out the pyramids of Monté Alban, the Zapotec City which once dominated all of Mesoamerica. In a place where past is present, life is at once ordinary and extraordinary.

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Looking north from my rooftop

May 09, 2006

Another Wild Night Out with Sra. Guillermina and the Gang.

You still think expat life is glamorous? Here I am hanging out with my 48-year-old “mother” on a Saturday night. We go to a Levantamiento de la cruz at the home of a neighbor whose mother died last week of old age. The Levantamiento del cruz, or Lifting of the Cross, takes place eight days after someone has died. Friends and relatives converge on the family home, where they sit up late into the night, reciting rosaries and singing hymns to help the departed on their journey into the Great Beyond. The next day, after an early mass, they parade to the cemetery, bearing a cross, which is then placed, over the tomb of their loved one.

Guillermina’s neighbor has set up a shrine in what is usually her dining room, judging from the refrigerator stranded in the corner. The adobe walls are cluttered with religious images in ornate gilt frames, mostly of the Virgin of Juquila, who like Guadalupe looks like an indigenous woman, with a halo of flowing black hair. On the cement floor is a 3 by four foot image of the Virgin of Juquila, painstakingly rendered in glittering sand and framed by votive candles and pink chrysanthemum blossoms. Pink and white blossoms also spill from tall, chrome vases placed on either side of the altar. Propped against the wall is the brass cross, inscribed with the deceased’s name, which tomorrow will crown her tomb. The small room is hot from the all candles, so Guillermina insists on sitting on the patio outside. It’s difficult to make out the murmured litany from within so we frequently lose our place in the rosary. Also working against the solemn atmosphere is the reggaeton music coming from the Quinceañera party a block away.

“Hail Mary, full of Grace,” we chant.

“Da me más gasolina!” roars Daddy Yankee.

“The Lord is with you…”

“Da me más gasolina!”

After about the second mystery, Guillermina has given up on the rosary and is lecturing the woman beside her on the dangers of second hand smoke. Meanwhile, the family of the deceased are not participating either, but bustling around the patio preparing food for the guests.

At nine o’clock, prayer is suspended and the party begins. We take our places at one of the card tables set up in the dirt road in front of their house (fortunately it’s not a busy road!). The family serves us coffee in Styrofoam cups and steaming plates of Enfrijoladas. Enfrijoladas are one of numerous Mexican dishes invented to use up leftovers, in this case, beans and tortillas. First you fry up some corn tortillas, which are folded over in thirds. Then you top them with a sauce of finely ground black beans and a licorice flavored herb called hoja santa. The plate is garnished with crumbled farmer cheese, finely sliced onion and cilantro sprigs.

During the meal we talk about everything but the deceased woman. The conversation ranges from low-carb diets (without ever mentioning the name Dr. Atkins) to a priest in Mexico City who heals with the touch of his hands. Nobody seems particularly surprised or skeptical about this. Maybe because survival here is in itself an act of faith, coupled with hard work. Take Guillermina, who spends her days tramping up and down the steep hillsides of Santa Anita and surrounding areas, totting her basket of used clothing to sell. She’s not waiting around for her estranged husband in the US to send money, which he does “when he wants.” As much as anyone I know in the US, her family has achieved the American Dream. In a society where completing elementary school is considered an accomplishment, Guillermina’s two oldest daughter have college degrees, and Reyna, 26, is finishing her masters degree in business administration. Although all three are proud of their indigenous roots, not one of them speaks the language of the Sierra. In fact, they speak more English than Zapotec. They don’t like to dance with their mother at traditional fiestas. They prefer pop music and chatting on the Internet. Sometimes “development” comes at a cost.

Around ten we resume praying. There are more people now (having showed up in time for the food) and the chanting takes on a mesmerizing rhythm. Guillermina hunches down into her woven shawl, eyelids flickering.

“Are you tired?” she whispers. “Do you want to go home?”

“I’m all right but if you want to go that’s fine.”

“Can you make it for another two hours?”

“I can stay up but if you’re ready to go…”

We resume our litany, but two minutes later she taps me on the shoulder.

“Let’s go.”

When we arrive home, she informs the rest of the family that “Anna was tired so we decided to go.”

May 03, 2006

Another Day, Another Holiday in Oaxaca

Like most days in Oaxaca, today is a holiday. It’s the Day of the Holy Cross, a synthesis of the Catholic holiday honoring carpenters and an indigenous festival celebrating the arrival of the rainy season. I’ve been invited to a calenda, which is a kind of traditional fiesta featuring folkloric dancing, music and ceremonial processions.

It takes the bus almost an hour to arrive at Santa Anita, the working class neighborhood, or colonia popular, where Sra. Guillermina lives. The delay is mostly due to the students from the Architecture School of the Autonomous Benito Juarez University, who are parading down one of the main streets, dressed as devils, witches, and professional wrestlers. None of the passersby raise an eyebrow, except the tourists, who grope for their cameras. Celebrations are routine in Oaxaca, and people would much rather see the streets closed off for calendas than protesters. Often traffic is stalled by teachers demanding a living wage or groups demanding to know the whereabouts of indigenous leaders who have simply “disappeared.”
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A typical street in the Santa Anita neighbhorhood

The neighborhood of Santa Anita straddles a steep hillside overlooking the city. The houses jockey for space on the precipice, their corrugated tin roofs slanting every which way. It’s the perfect antidote for all the cookie cutter tract houses I saw growing up in Arizona. Tangles of Bougainvillea and trumpet vines spill from the cracks in the adobe walls and laundry is strung up everywhere, like Tibetan prayer flags. Even the trash strewn in the alleyways has a certain decorative quality, although the Sra. Guillermina would strongly disagree.

I follow the sound of music and firecrackers to the top of the hill, where there stands a giant white cross from across the visable all across the valley. In Santa Anita, most of the streets consist of steep concrete steps cut into the hillside, which sure beat a stair climber for exercise. In front of the cross, people are setting up metal folding chairs in preparation for the 12 o’clock mass. I spot Guillermina easily because she’s decked out in the traditional dress of Betaza, the village in the Sierra Juárez where her family is from. She wears a wide white skirt and puffy blouse tied with a red sash. Her braided pigtails, with homemade hair extensions made of black yarn, fall well below her waist. She’s surrounded by her posse of indigenous women in similar outfits, not one of them over five feet tall. They chatter away in Zapotec, the gentle aspirated language of the Sierra Juárez.

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Sra Guillermina, Queen of the Sierra

“Mi’ija!” she cries when she sees me. Since I first came to Oaxaca three years, she has claimed me as her daughter and delights in introducing me as such. We get a kick out of the incredulous looks of acquaintances, as they take in the petit dark matron and her giant pale-skinned sidekick. We say I take after my father, or that I suffer from a rare skin condition, like Michael Jackson. Eventually it comes out that I was adopted, at age 22, when her daughter Lupita and I became conversation partners and then close friends.

After the mass comes my favorite part of fiesta, the mole. A woman in a blue apron ladels the chicken in sweet, smoky chocolate-based sauce from a huge vat she’s spent the last 48 hours preparing. Eating mole with plastic utensils is a skill I’m still acquiring. I’ve been taught to brace the chicken with a scrap of tortilla while using the plastic spoon to part the meat from the bone. Still, I always end up with mole all over my fingers. Of course Guillermina devours her mole without so much as a drop falling on her brilliant white outfit.

As soon as she’s finished Guillermina rounds up her posse and they hit the dance floor, or rather, a flat dusty space graded into the hillside. They heft their canastas onto their heads and start to twirl. Canastas are unwieldy baskets decorated with religious symbols and fresh or silk flowers. The garish red plastic roses adorning Guillermina’s canasta match her sash. She stabilizes the canasta with one hand and holds out the fan of her skirt with the other. Her friends do likewise as the brass band plays the lively tunes of the Sierra. But Guillermina is the most elegant of all. Her posture makes me think of queen, her back perfectly straight in order to support the weight of the canasta, while her feat keep perfect time to the bouncing beat. She swishes her wide skirt in a gesture that is both coquettish and dignified, and looks straight ahead, eyes gleaming.

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Sra. Guillermina (left) dances with members of her entourage


Lupita arrives and together we applaud our “mom’s” virtuoso performance. Behind the dancers extends the panorama of the Valley of Oaxaca, the roofs of the city broken by the blue ascent of the Sierra. I feel like I’m ruining the picture when I’m finally coaxed into dancing with a member of the posse. I bob and sway gamely, in a clumsy imitation of the Señora’s dainty footwork. At one point a man smelling of mescal tries to cut in but Guillermina slaps him and he lurches way. Part of her maternal duty is to protect me from the licentious male population until she can marry me off to one of her nephews.

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Guillermina dances with her sister Yolanda

Those to whom dancing comes naturally, like Guillermina, always say to “feel the music.” Unfortunately, this advice tells me nothing about what to do with my size nine-and-a-half feet. But as we review the video that Lupita has shot with my digital camera, it’s clear that I was feeling a rhythm, but unfortunately it was entirely different from the one my partner was following. In the video I’m writhing all over the place as if I was at a disco instead of a traditional calenda. Lupita plays it over and over and threatens to send it everyone we know. Hopefully it won’t end up on this website.

By late afternoon the rain blows in, as is usual this time of year, and the party breaks up. The posse assumes formation for the procession back to the chapel. They take turns bearing the flower-wreathed crucifix, while the band plays a solemn hymn. Lightning rips the sky as Jesus is safely returned to his alter. Here Catholicism is not a distant dogma but the pillar around which social and family life revolve. I imagine it was much the same before the Catholic saints masked the pre-Hispanic pantheon. The continuity is palpable here on this hillside, under the powerful, lightning streaked sky.

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The rainy season descends on Oaxaca

May 01, 2006

LaRouse Spanish-English Dictionary
Güero, -ro adj Amer fam blond (f blond).

Where I come from I am not blond. My brown hair is just dark enough to place me firmly in the brunette category.

Where I come from I’m not white. When you belong to the racial majority, skin color does not figure much in your identity. In fact, where I’m from, instead of being white, I’m pasty. Doctors always test me for anemia because of my year-round pallor.

There, no one considers me tall. At just under 5’6,” I was too short to play forward on my High School basketball team, and too klutzy to be a guard.

In Oaxaca, I am a güera goddess. The piropos, catcalls and compliments pursue me wherever I go: “Güerita! HEL-lo Güera! Ay qué bonita! But the word güera means more than blond. It’s not just about hair, or even skin. Güera means beautiful. It means foreign. Exotic. It means money. Status. In the markets, venders address everyone as güera, no matter what their skin tone; it’s a standard part of their sales technique. Mexicans see nothing inappropriate about calling attention to your race, especially when, if you are white, your race is considered an asset.

Where I come from my body blends in. In Oaxaca my body is symbol of everything people admire and resent about the United States. It no longer belongs to me - it’s a prize in a power struggle larger than myself. Sometimes I forget, immersed in my own world of work and Mexican friends who treat me like one of the gang. Then some small event, out of nowhere, explodes my illusion of assimilation. Once, I was with a boyfriend, Armando, when a stranger came up and congratulated him on his conquest (me!): “Andale güey!” he said. “Way to go, man! It’s about time we take something from el norte. After all they’ve taken enough from us.” Suddenly, I felt my white hand burning in Armando's mestizo one. I felt self-conscious in the very cells of my skin and all the centuries of history encoded within them.

Sometimes I wonder if this is how racial minorities feel in the US. But to feel this way in your own country, where your family may have spent generations; that must be a whole other level of alienation. I am here as a result of a conscious choice, and I must adjust to the cultural norms of my new home.

But behind the Güera, behind the social construction, it’s just me, Anna. I grew up in Western Massachusetts and in Scottsdale, Arizona. It was in Arizona that I first became curious about the Hispanic culture that existed alongside my white suburban world yet separated by what seemed to be a vast linguistic and economic divide. Later I went to the University of Wisconsin in Madison, where I studied Creative Writing and Spanish. Learning Spanish gave me the opportunity to study abroad, first in Oaxaca, and then in Cuba, where I was one of the last American students at the University of Havana before President Bush tightened travel restrictions in 2004. After graduating I returned to Oaxaca, a place whose magic still had a hold on me. For that last year and a half I have supported my writing habit by teaching English part time. I hope through this diary to transmit some of Oaxaca’s magic. They call this a developing country. But as you come to know its people and its culture, you see that in many ways Oaxaca is more “developed” than the United States.

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